The Joshua Tree Crack Climbing Workshop
This is a list compiled from a post on Jason Martin’s website that he sourced from a now deleted article by the Southern Californian Mountaineers Association.
“The idea behind this list it is that as one ticks each of the climbs in this particular order, one will become a more skilled crack climber.
The system appears quite scientific. First, TR the route until it is doable. Then lead it with preplaced gear. Then lead it without flailing. Once this has been completed, move onto the next route. According to the original article, those who follow this regimine closely will begin to jump grades in their climbing ability.”
I have added Mountain Project links to each climb, general location, and page numbers for Robert Miramontes’s Joshua Tree Rock Climbs 3rd Edition Guide Book.
I have also created a custom Google Map to show the approximate location of each climb listed.
Easy Cracks (5.3-5.6)
BEGINNER’S THREE 5.3, Intersection Rock, page 171
ROUTE 66 5.4, Entrance to Wonderland, page 67
THE BONG 5.4, Hidden Valley Campground, page
THE CHIEF 5.5, Entrance to Wonderland, page 58
YELLOW PERIL 5.5, Entrance to Wonderland, page 74
The Bong - April Davidson - Mountain Project
Dolphin - maratumba - Mountain Project
Prep Climbs A (5.7)
BIGHORN HAND CRACK 5.7, Entrance to Wonderland, Unlisted
SMOOTH AS SILK 5.8, Lost Horse Road, page 114
DOUBLE DOG LEG 5.7, Lost Horse Road, page 117
CLASSIC CORNER 5.7, Lost Horse Valley, page 131
BUSH CRACK 5.7, Lost Rose Valley, page 126
WHITE LIGHTNING 5.7, Lost Horse Road, page 109
SCRUMDILLISHUS 5.7, Lost Horse Road, page 112
FROSTY CONE 5.7, Lost Horse Road, page 112
MR. MISTY KISS 5.7, Lost Horse Road, page 112
DOUBLE CROSS 5.7, Hidden Valley Campground, page 176
NERELTNE 5.7, The Outback, page 166
LIFE'S A BITCH AND THEN YOU MARRY ONE 5.7, Wonderland South, page 269
MENTAL PHYSICS 5.8, Wonderland South, page 281
WISEST CRACK 5.7, Ryan Mountain, Unlisted
DOLPHIN 5.7, Spilt Rocks Area, page 400
CRACK N’ UP 5.5, Pinto Basin, page 431
GARGOYLE 5.6, Zippy Rock, page 429
Sail Away - Mathew R. - Mountain Project
Prep Climbs B (5.8)
RIGHT SAWDUST CRACK 5.8, Quail Springs, page 40
BABY ROOF 5.7, Entrance to Wonderland, page 66
DINKY DOINKS 5.8, Lost Horse Road, page 115
SAIL AWAY 5.8, Real Hidden Valley, page 198
THE FLAKE 5.8, Hidden Valley Campground, page 172
DOGLEG 5.8+, Hidden Valley Campground, page 175
HANDS OFF 5.8, Hidden Valley Campground, page 187
TENNIS SHOE CRACK 5.8, The Outback, page 158
RIGHT PEYOTE CRACK 5.8, Echo Tee, page 228
SMALL WORLD 5.8, Sheep Pass, page 345
MUSIC BOX 5.8, Pinto Basin Road, page 421
WHERE 2 DESERTS MEET 5.8, Pinto Basin Road, page 425
CRANK QUEENIE 5.8, Indian Cove, page 444
TAKEN FOR GRANITE 5.8, Rattlesnake Canyon, page 474
AT YOUR PLEASURE 5.8, Queen Mountain, page 358
Room to Shroom - Ashton Searing - Mountain Project
Level One (5.8-5.9)
CAKEWALK 5.8+, Lost Horse Road, page 114
DUMMY'S DELIGHT 5.9, Real Hidden Valley, page 209
LOONEY TUNES 5.9, The Outback, page 166
MIDDLE PEYOTE CRACK 5.9, Echo Tee, page 228
POPE'S CRACK 5.9+, Echo Tee, page 241
ROOM TO SHROOM 5.9, Wonderland South, page 271
TOUCH AND GO 5.9, Echo Tee, page 237
NURN'S ROMP 5.8, Hall of Horrors, page 337
GEM 5.8, Jumbo Rocks Area, page 389
COLORADO CRACK 5.9, Jumbo Rocks Area, page 389
CONTINUUM 5.8+, Spilt Rocks Area, page 404
INVISIBILITY LESSONS 5.9, Split Rocks, page 404
Level Two (5.9-5.10c)
RIGHT BASKERVILLE CRACK 5.10a, Quail Springs, page 45
TOSSED GREEN 5.10a, Quail Springs, page 46
AFTERMATH 5.10a, Entrance to Wonderland, page 66
LEFT MEL CRACK 5.10b, Lost Horse Road, page 97
RIGHT MEL CRACK 5.10c, Lost Horse Road, page 97
SPHINCTER QUITS 5.9+, Real Hidden Valley, page 196
NORTH OVERHANG 5.9, Hidden Valley Campground, page 171
ORPHAN 5.9, Hidden Valley Campground, page 177
WATANOBE WALL 5.10a, Roadside Rocks, page 149
EFFIGY TOO (TR) 5.10a/b, Echo Tee, page 236
SPIDERMAN 5.10b, Jumbo Rocks, page 389
BIRD OF FIRE 5.10a, Split Rocks Area, page 400
Bird of Fire - Hamik Mukelyan - Mountain Project
Super Roof - Lê Stephen - Mountain Project
Level Three (5.9-5.10b)
TINKER TOYS 5.10b, Lost Horse Road, page 115
FRIENDLY HANDS 5.10b, Lost Horse Valley, page 132
TAX MAN 5.10a, Lost Horse Road, page 111
ILLUSION DWELLER 5.10b, Real Hidden Valley, page 204
LOWER RIGHT SKI TRACK 5.10, Hidden Valley Campground, page 171
SUPER ROOF 5.9, The Outback, page 158
WOMAN'S WORK IS NEVER DONE 5.10c, Roadside Rocks, page 148
BRUISER (TR) 5.10b, Roadside Rocks, page 148
ROLLERBALL 5.10b, The Outback, page 161
HALFWAY TO PARADISE (TR) 5.10a/b, Echo Tee, page 236
DANGLING WOO LI MASTER 5.10a, Wonderland South, page 288
EXORCIST 5.10a, Hall of Horror’s, page 337
Level Four (5.10b-5.10d)
FOREIGN LEGION 5.10c, Entrance to Wonderland, page 66
THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ERNEST 510c/d, Lost Horse Road, page 108
WHAT'S IT TO YOU (TR) 5.10d, Real Hidden Valley, page 196
CLEAN AND JERK (TR) 5.10c, Real Hidden Valley, page 196
FISTICUFFS 5.10b, Real Hidden Valley, page 207
BEARDED CABBAGE 5.10c, Hidden Valley Campground, page 177
O'KELLY'S CRACK 5.11a, Echo Tee, page 230
SANCTUARY (AKA BOOK OF CHANGES) 5.10b, Wonderland South, page 288
CAUGHT INSIDE ON A BIG SET 5.10-, Wonderland South, page 288
MORNING THUNDER 5.10b, Wonderland South, page 288
PERPETUAL MOTION 5.10d, Geology Tour Road, page 379
RUBICON 5.10c, Split Rocks Area, page 399
Bearded Cabbage - Mathew Swartz - Mountain Project
Coarse and Buggy - Jordan Cannon - Mountain Project
Level Five (5.10c-5.11c)
BUTTERFLY CRACK 5.11c, Quail Springs, page 40
PSYCHOKENESIS 5.11, Wonderland North, page 81
LEMON SLICER 5.11a, Wonderland North, Unlisted
PAPAYA CRACK 5.11a, Lost Horse Road, page 102
PAT ADAMS DIHEDRAL 5.11d, Lost Horse Road, page 113
COARSE AND BUGGY 5.11a/b, Roadside Rocks, page 144
LEFT SKI TRACK 5.11a, Intersection Rock, page 169
JUMPING JACK CRACK 5.11b, The Outback , page 159
HOT ROCKS 5.11c, The Outback, page 166
SWEPT AWAY 5.11a, Echo Tee, page 242
HEART OF DARKNESS 5.11a, Ryan Mountain, page 323
GRIT ROOF 5.11a, Hall of Horrors, page 333
Level Six (5.11a-5.12a)
EROTIC CITY 5.11b, Quail Springs, page 50
HYPERION 5.11d, Wonderland North, page 84
SCARY MONSTERS 5.12a, Lost Horse Valley, page 124
RIGHT BANANA CRACK 5.11a, Lost Horse Road, page 102
WHERE EAGLES DARE 5.11d, Real Hidden Valley, page 204
HIDDEN ARCH 5.11d, Real Hidden Valley, page 209
SPIDER LINE 5.11d, Hidden Valley Campground, page 177
WANGERBANGER 5.11c, Echo Tee, page 230
MORE MONKEY THAN FUNKY 5.11c, Wonderland South, page 266
HUMAN SACRIFICE 5.11c, Geology Tour Road, page 280
THE WOODSHED 5.11d, Split Rocks Area, page 394
ZEN AND THE ART OF PLACEMENT 5.11c, Geology Tour Road, page 375
Spider Line - John Bachar by Bob Gaines - Mountain Project